the moderate epicurean

a quest for measured pleasure...

Monday, December 31, 2007

Dida!

Merry Christmas again! Last night we had our very last Christmas celebration, with Dad & Susanna and David & Etta, home from NYC. Stacey & Cooper were there too, as well as John & Nathan. And of course Jake-a-saurus (my parents' adorable spaniel). We opened presents right away, as we're learning (remembering!) that it's tough for a one-year old (Coop!) to face all that excitement post-dinner, dangerously close to bedtime. The star gift was Dida, an orphaned baby elephant that Dad & Susanna sponsored in Nathan's name through The David Sheldrick Wildlife Trust. Four-week old Dida had fallen into a man-made water hole, poor little sweetie, but is now healthy and settled at the orphanage with other young elephants. Nathan will receive monthly updates on Dida's progress, as well as photos of her with her caretakers. Read all about her and her lucky rescue here.

For dinner, Dad shot and Susanna prepared - I'm not kidding - Christmas goose! Not a roasted goose per se, but something rather more fabulous - a Julia Child, rustic French preparation of goose breasts over whipped potatoes and sauteed cabbage, napped with a rich, long-cooked brown sauce of onions, vermouth, and salt pork. Gorgeous, festive, and of course absolutely delicious, especially with crusty, grainy bread to wipe up every drop. Of that amazing sauce! For dessert, I made an old stand-by, cream puffs filled with whipped cream and drizzled with chocolate sauce. Pretty darn tasty. (Recipe posted in comments, below.)

After lots of goodnight "kisses" for Cooper (you can tell he's tired when he starts "fuzzing" his little earlobes), and a very interesting look - on Nathan's new world map - at exactly where in Germany our family is from (Ostfriesland), we packed up our spiffy new gifts and made our way home for an early bedtime. Had to try for extra sleep because...

...tonight, we gather yet one more time, but more on that next year...

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Saturday, December 29, 2007

Oy, hugely BIG food and wine night tonight, courtesy of Ana Scofield & Rudy Maxa, with Debbie & Stu Wiiliams (of course), and new friends Tessa Marchessault & Greg Becker. Yep, major oy. Poor John, he's such toast, he can't truly eat heartily of shrimp cocktail, pickled herring, smoked salmon...and lobster tails with drawn butter, rice pilaf, crusty bread, mixed greens...and fabulous wines, ice cream, carrot cake...while chatting & making merry... At least not without a bit of fading after a good effort. Oh, not because he doesn't love hanging with good friends - because he obviously does - but because he's just naturally rather quiet, my Johnny, aka Mr. Not Party (who very luckily puts up with Ms. Party Party. Party. Wheeew.).

So, we're safely home, oddly (perfectly) matched as we are, and I'm insanely writing at 1:40 a.m. about the greatness of our lovely dinner, particularly the sips of various and sundry wines (but a sampling):
1980 Dom Perignon Champagne
1992 Bollinger Champagne
1996 Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru
2001 Bourgogne Pinot Noir
2003 Chateau Potelle (VGS, aka Very Good Sh*t, no kidding)
2005 Chalk Hill Botrytised Semillon

Come fill the bowl, each jolly soul
Let Bacchus guide our revels.

Join the cup to lip, with Hip, Hip, Hip
And bury the blue devils.

(aka Rudy's New Yorker cartoon "cards," thank you very much)

Good night. Morning! Yeah.

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Thursday, December 27, 2007

Earthy. Good word, right? I'm all about earthy these post-Christmas days, merrily reading The Pillars of the Earth, relishing the descriptions of 12th century English peasants enjoying their "horse bread" (multi-grain) dipped in ale, their fire-roasted meats washed down with homemade wine, their thick ham-n-cabbage soups, served with slabs of farmer's cheese. Rarrr, I'm a total sucker for rustic-food writing of that sort.

Which made me enjoy tonight's last-minute dinner even more. I had John stop for a rack of lamb on his way home, and stirred up a batch of truffly risotto while I waited for him, and we ate both accompanied by the earthiest of wines - a 2003 Turley Paso Robles Zinfandel, heavenly. In fact, if you notice (in my lame phone-photo, sorry, my camera is at Stacey's), there are flecks of what appears to be black pepper in the risotto, but no, it's char from the grilled lamb juices. Yep, I decadently stirred the carved lamb meat juices into the risotto, before a finishing shower of freshly grated Parm and a sprinkle of truffle oil and coarse salt, and I dare you to find an earthier combo. (Recipe for risotto in comments, below.)

John and I just looked at each other and giggled like the 12th century English peasants we're not - John the Jew of York and his mistress, Stephanie Ricemaker of Lake and Field. Har!

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Wednesday, December 26, 2007

Merry Christmas Day! We spent the occasion at my Aunt Mary and Uncle Bruce's lovely farm outside Kerkhoven, Minnesota, as we have for the last several years, lucky us. As always, it was picture perfect - twinkly-sparkly festive and the definition of Christmas-y as we all sat around the gorgeous, gigantic table they set up for the holiday each year. Truly a sight to behold. We shared a toast with a delicious red prosecco, then tucked into prime rib, mashed potatoes, beets with sour cream, buttery green beans with morel mushrooms, and roasted carrots and cipollini onions. Tender challah and crusty no-knead bread (my meager contribution). And my Aunt Marge's killer creamy cheese cake with strawberries. Oh yes, quite a meal!

And then, we just sat enjoying the candlelit table, in that charming old farmhouse in the country, chatting and telling stories and reading letters and verses and half-laughing, half-crying through it all. I am so very lucky to have an incredibly cool and fun extended family, my dad's sisters Marge and Mary and their families. So thanks to them, and their fabulous husbands Jim and Bruce, as well as Kim, Kelly, Jomo, Michael, Amanda, and Craig for such a great day. And to Stacey & Cooper for driving John, Nathan, and me out and back (long drive!). And to Dad, Susanna, David, and Etta for making the day complete and completely perfect.

And oh! We feasted the night before as well, of course, Christmas Eve. Stacey, Cooper, Bowen, and my mom were here for gifts and a big fire and a quiet, simple dinner. The crab cakes and Julia Child's chocolate mousse were big hits (recipe for mousse posted in comments, below).

So. I can't decided if it's going to be a great relief or incredibly disappointing to return to Normal Eating. Probably a little of both. I'll let you know when I get there, cuz it sure ain't yet!

And oh again! Because it's adorable, and I'm perfectly unashamed to spice up my food-obsessed blog with a bit of Cooper Cuteness, here's a little video clip, below... Merry Christmas Auntie Etta!


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Monday, December 24, 2007

Caviar, caviar, caviar, oooooh, caviar, yay! Merry Christmas to me, tee hee! John and I took the opportunity, with the few hours alone we have this holiday, to indulge in the caviar he gave me for Christmas, with toast points, sour cream, sieved egg, and chopped sweet onion, washed down with lovely Veuve Cliquot champagne. Oh dear, I fret only because how can anything else possibly compare to such romantic decadence? I even thought about making blini, for a perfect Dr. Zhivago-esque experience, but man, too much work. Someday, someday, but with making a big dinner tonight, and baking a couple of loaves of bread for tomorrow, it would be more work than fun, so...buttery toast points instead of blini, hardly a sacrifice, ha.

I won't be posting tomorrow, so consider this my online Christmas card to wish you all a very Merry Christmas! Here's to happy time with family, safe travels, tasty food, and fine drink.

My best to you all, with love, Stephanie

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Sunday, December 23, 2007

Silver bells, silver lights, let it snow and snow and snow! Yes, it's cold and blustery, but oh my goodness it's beautiful out there, truly a winter wonderland. John and I and both kids celebrated the frosty fabulousness with dinner at Ciao Bella - pizza, risotto, lasagna, salad, calamari, tiramisu, salmon - basically, a tour through their entire menu, ha.

Afterward, full and bundled up (and thankful for all-wheel drive), Nathan and I set out for a tour of a different sort, a Christmas-light tour, first checking out displays we looked up in the newspaper, then ending with simple drives through some of our favorite neighborhoods. I'm such a sucker for the big light displays, and every neighborhood looks perfect and Christmas-y under a blanket of soft, fluffy snow, lit by a full moon no less, warmly cold, silver and gold. Having ourselves a Merry Little Christmas indeed.

Tomorrow, stay tuned for late-morning Christmas caviar on toast points for John and me (one of my presents, nice!), then roast chicken and vegetables with stuffing and pan juices, crab cakes, and chocolate mousse and lefse for Mom, Stacey, Cooper, and Bowen for Christmas Eve dinner.

Thank goodness we'll be opening some presents, I'll be needing the exercise, whew.

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Saturday, December 22, 2007

More brunch! This time here at the hacienda, with a group of Santa's Little Elvettes, aka The Merry Miladies, aka The Brunching Beyotches (ooh, bad one, sorry): Kim, Suz, Polly, Kasey, and Stacey. I've found it quite relaxingly festive at this time of year to host a casual little brunch, a sit-down and put-up your-feet affair. No kids, no hubbies, just girlie chat, a few sips of prosecco, Christmas music, and simple brunch classics like eggs and pastry and cured meats and a new addition this year - cheese grits. Puffy and golden browned and creamy decadent...I'm all about cheese grits, dang (recipe posted in comments, below). I'll have to toss what's left because John and the kids aren't the grits/polenta types, which leaves just me and the grits (shiver), baaad idea.

I made several of my favorites, in fact. Mini-popovers to start (with Hope Creamery butter, natch). Then a crustless quiche with spinach, tomatoes, potatoes, and mushrooms; Neuske's Canadian bacon; cheese grits; and Mom's Almond Puff Pastry with coffee to finish.

Fullness! Fortified for last-minute shopping! Merry Christmas ladies!

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Tuesday, December 18, 2007

Brunch! I forgot to say I had the loveliest brunch on Sunday (before John and I took off for Chicago), with my dad, Stacey, Cooper, and Nathan. At Campiello, turns out a very nice brunch spot. Not that I specifically knew that when I made the res, but I sure do now, and I would recommend it highly. For less than $20/person, you will feast (feast!) on warm blueberry-streusel muffins, eggs (I opted for a shrimp frittata, delicious), and family-style platters of crispy bacon & sausages, thick waffles, fresh fruit, creamy chicken-artichoke penne, roasted potatoes & peppers, champagne, and coffee. Yeah, "try to make a meal," as my mom's grandmother used to say. Lord. (I also forgot to mention that the plane could hardly take off, due to the weight of some passenger's stomach. Uff.)

Oh, also meant to mention that John and I atoned for Friday's viewing of Atonement with a Saturday viewing of Starting Out in the Evening. Now that is a movie, much better. We were able to sneak in a mini-date thanks to Cory & Suz hosting Nathan for Kids Movie Night at Shubert Theater, Harry Potter and the Order of the Phoenix now showing! After our movie, under the guise of picking up Nathan, John and I were invited to sip wine and chat (yay!) in front of a roaring fire with Cory & Suz while the kids stayed really quiet so we'd forget about them and let them stay up too late. Which would have worked beautifully if we were younger parents and could actually stay up later than our children... Alas, we all had our sorry butts in bed by 11 p.m., wondering how on earth we're going to properly ring in 2008. Lame!

And oh, also after the fact (apparently the theme of this entire posting, ha), my mom's recipe for Spiced Cranberry Relish Mold. Perfect for Thanksgiving, of course, but lovely at Christmas too because it is absolutely, festively gorgeous. And the sweet-spicy combo is a tangy foil for uber-rich holiday foods. Enjoy! (Recipe posted in comments, below.)

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Monday, December 17, 2007

I realize this sounds rather thick, but I forget what a city Chicago is, man, the real deal. I've been a jillion times (it's a sneeze from UW-Madison), and stayed in various 'burbs and 'hoods, for work and for pleasure - but I guess John's version of NYC (yay for New York!) has sort of shadowed my Chicago impressions...

...until yesterday, when John and I snuck down for a blink of a 24-hour getaway, downtown at the funkalicious, romantic Hotel Monaco, and I suddenly remembered how mighty and impressive a city Chicago is (duh, I know). Very Gotham-esque in its own right, right? And gorgeous, sheesh, sparkling with new-fallen snow and Christmas lights and that killer skyline. And the river! The Hotel Monaco overlooks the Chicago River - was I ever aware of the Chicago River? Uh no, I'm embarrassed to say, I perched in the window seat of our room (HUGE funky window seat, it rocked), and peered out over the skyscraper-lined river, and said to John, hey, check out that stunning river! And he was like, yeah dude, check out that Chicago River, and we totally cracked up. The whole experience made me feel like I hadn't been in Chicago before, it was wild and fun and crazy.

For dinner, we lazily ventured no farther than the restaurant connected to the hotel, South Water Kitchen. Yum. Lovely Cabernet-Merlot blend, a genius side-order of mashed potatoes (they have a whole list of $4 comfort-food sides, a few bites each, enough to feel cozy but not ill), simple French salads (butter lettuce, chives, tarragon-vinaigrette), and a few bites of what they billed as Spicy Spaghetti, in effect Spaghetti All-Amatriciana (bacon, dried pepper flakes, tomatoes). Sigh. Lovely, romantic, restorative, I could definitely get into the 24-hour retreat (John's groaning as I write that - he's frustrated with my 5-day limit on trips, he'll have a cow if I start lobbying for the 24-hour version - but he can't deny it was a true, if short, get-away).

So, now we're back in the land of another pretty cool river...whatever it's called...

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Saturday, December 15, 2007

Cave Vin, meaning "wine cellar" in French (actually, cave à vin means wine cellar, but we won't be picky), is a lovely little spot to sip wine and nosh on comfy bistro food. How do I know? Well, I did both last night, with John (after seeing Atonement, which IMHO isn't as good as everyone is raving, and doesn't hold a candle to the gut-wrenching book), both of us freezing and in need of sustenance. We used to frequent Cave Vin on a pretty regular basis, but it kinda sorta fell out of our repertoire. Not sure why. But our on-a-whim reprieve made it quite perfect to return to last night. We stumbled into the dimly candlelit (just the way I like it), crowded, nicely noisy room and felt like we'd come home. If you go, absolutely order the garlic pommes frites. Smokin' hot & crisp & skinny, showered with salt and crushed fresh garlic, they're crazy-delicious. (And if you plan to smooch afterward, don't worry - just both eat lots, in effect canceling out your aromatic breath. Breaths. Voila.)

In fact, if you're ever in the post-movie position of wanting wine + hot, crispy frites, which happens to me, well, every time I go to a movie, put Cave Vin on your list. (Along with the bars of La Belle Vie, The Capital Grille, Cafe Lurcat, Mission American, Cafe Barbette, Bacio...yep, I've downed a few frites in my day...not one bit moderate, but OMG taaaasty!)

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Friday, December 14, 2007

Yay for Friday Morning Coffee with Suz! Well-timed, loads to talk about, things have been so crazy-busy I feel like I haven't seen her for a year. We sipped our yummy joe, ran into a few old neighbors, gossiped some more, and cackled and shrieked so loudly we damn near chased away all the other customers. Woops! Man, good friends are worth their weight in gold (or in this case, much more, since Suz is pretty tiny and doesn't weigh very much at all)!

I had to tell her about the blast of a night I had last night - my mom invited me along to her office holiday party at The Chanhassen Dinner Theater for their production of Joseph and the Amazing Technicolor Dreamcoat. I admit, I'm not a big Broadway musical fan of the Andrew Lloyd Weber variety, but I've always had a soft spot in my heart for Joseph. I first saw it in oh, 1983, it was my high school's spring musical production. I remember going in with low expectations...and walking out completely charmed. I went at least another five times (hey, I was 16). I had last seen it in the mid-90s, the big-time Donny Osmond version at the State Theater, very fun. And then not again until last night, almost 25 years after my first viewing (ouch!) - still fun, still charming. Good stuff.

While I was out, John was wrapping up the two-month-long celebration of our 5th anniversary. Huh? Well, back at the beginning of October, after much brain-wracking in an attempt to come up with a gift worthy of my sweet husband, I birthed two pretty friggin' awesome ideas. Idea One: a surprise dinner with his boys, his long-term buds, at 20.21. I got emailing right away, tossing out dates, and came up with...December 13th?! Ack, so far away from October 19! I felt I needed something else too, something closer to the big day, hmmm...

And then, Idea Two: I commissioned my coolicious sister Stacey to paint a portrait of Sigmund, John's dear, sweet dog who passed away last March (and who he's been missing mightily, sniff). An entire painting obviously couldn't be ready by the 19th either, but Stace thought she could have it done by Thanksgiving, so I told John he had two kickin' gifts coming. And so...Stace did her thing and delivered the painting on the Sunday of Thanksgiving weekend. It is, as you can see, completely amazing, a fabulously Stacified Siggy Roo, John was (is) absolutely blown away. BIG time hit. (Yesss!) Then last night...finally the dinner with his boys, total blast, a bawdy feasty feast that had the guys thanking me for thinking of it. (Yesss again!) So there. We are really, truly, absolutely done celebrating our anniversary.

Although for dinner tonight perhaps we could....

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Thursday, December 13, 2007

OK, so I left off yesterday with holiday waistline concerns. So I tore out a delicious-looking - but light and nutritious - recipe from the December '07 issue of Self magazine, Dates wtih Goat Cheese Wrapped in Prosciutto, fun for a cocktail party, I think. I'm a big fan of savory-date tasties - the date-sausage tapa at Solera is deadly - and this one looks easy, gorgeous, and fabulous as well, hitting on all the right levels : creamy, sweet, salty, chewy, rarrr... Check it out, let me know what you think. (Recipe posted in comments, below.)

I say check it out because I'm not actually doing much hosting this holiday season (although yes, I'm clearly doing plenty of celebrating, ha, in fact I'm out the door again tonight, but more on that later). Or nothing huge anyhow. Christmas Eve for just a few of us, a holiday brunch for a few girlfriends, that's about it. Mellow. Nice. For some reason this has been one of the most enjoyable, festive-yet-relaxing Christmas seasons - probably because I got organized earlier than usual, spread out the wrapping and shopping and decorating... I, uh, tend to put things off a bit. Right.

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Wednesday, December 12, 2007

Popovers! I love them so dangerously (as a delicious delivery vehicle for Hope Creamery butter) that I don't let myself make them very often. But tonight, aka Crazy Wednesday, when I needed a quick, hot something to go with a quick, hot soup for the whole fam... Eggy, buttery popovers, yep. So easy. So perfect. To die.

Although I'm almost still full from dinner last night - a gift certificate extravaganza at The Capital Grille, courtesy of Ana Scofield, for Debbie Williams and...lucky me! It was very sweet of Ana to share her bounty with us, and oh boy, did we do it up. Wine and king crab with drawn butter and huge, juicy steaks (that we could hardly put a dent in) and killericious truffle-Parmesan fries (holy fries). The place was hoppin', quite a scene, I must say. Lots of good holiday cheer (even a table of revelers in Santa hats!), it was a perfect Holiday Ladies Dinner. Thanks Ana and Debbie!

And thanks to Cooper for such a fun afternoon today - I missed him last week, but he had a great time in Maine, visiting Stacey's friend Caroline at her family's amazing home. Horses, a pot-bellied pig, dogs, beach - a postcard perfect pre-Christmas visit to one of the most beautiful places in the country. NICE! I don't know (yet!) what Stace is doing for a Christmas card this year, but this picture could do - Happy Merry Sweet Baby Cooper, awwww.

And oh! Lest I forget, have a look at the Famously Fabulous Amy Brown Christmas Cookies that we gratefully receive and devour each year. I'd offer a taste - but they were gone in mere minutes. All that hard work! All that loving care! And John and I ate them so inelegantly, I was rather ashamed - which is actually a compliment, a testament to how amazingly irresistible they are.

Dangerous time of year for the waistline, very dangerous...

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Sunday, December 09, 2007

Oh, I am so glowing after my neighborhood's holiday Afterglow Party - shield your eyes, baby, I'm bright, bright, bright. OK, maybe I'm just emitting uber-tiredness, since it's 1:30 a.m.(!), but hey, I wasn't the last one to leave, so I'm kinda proud. And, oh, tired.

I totally missed out on my neighbor Kasey's yummy-sounding appetizer - crisp bread with chives, ricotta, and prosciutto - so maybe I can snag the recipe from her, since they were obviously scrumpers and disappeared in a flash. The whole setting - generously hosted by Matt & Melinda Pfohl - was truly holiday gorgeous. Great food, lovely home, fine drink, a couple of roaring fires, good friends - what else could one want? Nothin' but a soft bed to fall into at the end of the night. And so...

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Saturday, December 08, 2007

Merry Baseball-y Christmas! Yes, tonight we improvised and had Baseball Moms here at the holiday hacienda - really just Beth, Sonja, and myself, pretty super easy. We decided to gather here last minute, so no planning or shopping required, which ended up being rather fun, I must say. I lurve last-minute pantry cooking, gets the creative juices flowing. End result? A quick crustless quiche with ham, tomatoes, and cheddar, and an olive-feta appetizer pizza for miladies. Beth helped me build a roaring fire, and Sonja brought deadly little ice cream bon bons from Trader Joe's, mysteriously all gone since John got home, hmmm... (No, we didn't eat them all stacked on top of each other, which made for a fun party-on-a-plate pic, but would be admittedly yuck-o to actually consume, ha.) We lazed and chatted in front of the tree and fire until, well, the fire dwindled, the beer ran low, our tummies were full, and it was time for the ladies to toddle on home.

And so now, it's time for me to toddle on to bed. John keeps yelling from the bedroom how sorry I'm going to be tomorrow and he's right (just this once). So with that, g'night!

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Friday, December 07, 2007

Again, I rave about Lucia's. I know, I know, but I can't help it, I love the place. Last night John and I ducked in for another perfect Date Night dinner - cozy, simple, relaxing, delicious. I had a roasted chicken breast, boned but with crispy skin, served alongside mushroom bread pudding in a pool of truffle demi-glace. Shut. Up. As you might already know, I am over-the-moon for savory stuffing/bread pudding/panzanella/panade-type dishes, and for truffle-anything, and I occasionally (!) like me a crispy roasted chicken as well, so I was all over this dish. I even smacked John's fork away with my own - clack! - when he went in for a bite of the bread pudding. He doesn't particularly enjoy stuffings or mushrooms, what the heck was he doing? After I chased such silliness away, I fell into a lovely, truffly trance, mmm... I'd say I ate every bite, but I couldn't pull it off. I gave half the chicken breast to John, and had to leave behind a few carrots and brussels (Lucia's always does the yummiest veggies), but I gave it a good go! And I was stuffed. But in that good way - warm and buzzy and sleepy. I slept like a rock. Man I love that place.

Good thing I got such good sleep - busy weekend! 'Tis the season! Tonight, Baseball Moms, tomorrow night, the neighborhood Frat Party, uh, I mean Afterglow Party, where all the grownups get dressed up and party down and have a grand old time. John would rather die than attend such a fete, so he'll be home with Nathan (boys' night!) while I happily head out on my own. Fa la la la la, la La La Lucia's!

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Thursday, December 06, 2007

Happy Hanukkah! We started our celebration last night, because that's when both kids were here, and marked the occasion with presents and fried potatoes. I gave up on latkes a few years ago (as much as I love them), mostly because the kids really just prefer the potato and oil part, ha, and not so much the onion or egg. So I did my favorite Grandma Meyer version of hashbrowns (she wasn't Jewish, but oy was she good with hot oil) - peeled and diced (quite small) russet potatoes, fried in a big skillet in about 1/2-inch of hot oil until crisp, drained on paper towels and generously salted. Pretty hard to beat, I must say. And John and the kids would agree. Snip, snap, gone, baby, gone.

Hope your Hanukkah is filled with good times, lovely gifts, and deliciously fried food as well!

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Sunday, December 02, 2007

The halls are officially decked! Wheeew. I still have a few things to pick up - pine boughs for the sideboard, mistletoe for the kitchen doorway - but all in all, we're in pretty festive shape. I usually do the tree lights by myself a day ahead of trimming with the fam. And hate it. So this year I did a novel thing...I let John and Nathan help me. So simple, duh, and of course so much more fun! Hey, innovations come late to us perfectionists, what can I say? John built a big fire, we put on our favorite Christmas tunes, Nathan unwrapped all the ornaments and set out his nutcracker collection, and I still got my perfectionist on by putting all the ribbon, beads, garland, and ornaments on by myself (luckily no one else has one ounce of interest, so I'm not bogarting the fun). Perfect!

And even more perfect? I didn't make dinner! John and Nathan did a Bacio take-out run for their signature chopped salads (for John and me) and wood-fired pizza (for Nathan). Quite lovely, totally hit the spot. Turns out we'd worked up quite the appetites trimming the tree (and groaning through the less glamorous parts like hauling boxes up- and downstairs, carrying out loads of trash, hauling in loads of firewood, and vacuuming up pine needles and bits of paper)!

My ornaments inevitably get me reminiscing about Christmases past - my first homely (bare!) trees, Baby Nathan's first ornaments, our first Christmas in this house, the many lovely ornaments I've received as gifts, my own collection of Santas. After all those trips down ornament-memory lane, I was ready to sip a cup of hot tea, put my feet up, and enjoy the absolute spectacle. It's a ton of work - and so worth it!

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Saturday, December 01, 2007

Unctuous. Isn't that a fabulous word? Chef Judy Rodgers uses it in her gorgeous The Zuni Cafe cookbook, specifically in her recipe for Chard & Onion Panade with Fontina, which I made today. And oh, unctuous it is... smooth, creamy, and rich. Almost deadly, in fact - it is so good, and so rich and substantial, I could imagine actually hurting myself with this thing, this panade. Good thing I'm a moderate epicurean (wink).

So, a panade, what is it, other than unctuous and substantial? Imagine a cross between a silky, savory, crusty bread pudding and the best gratineed French onion soup you've ever had and you'll be starting to get the picture. Alongside a roast, it would stand in as a moist, decadent stuffing. On its own, it would replace a risotto or pasta. Oh dear, I feel an obsession coming on...

And this isn't all I made today! I also simmered a simple soup, thinking Nathan wouldn't dig panade (I was quite wrong, it turns out). Chicken broth, little bacon, onions and garlic (in a bouquet garni, Nathan's not a huge fan of lots of chopped onions in soup), herbs, and chicken, with a touch of cream to finish. And quickly sauteed bits of asparagus and a drizzle of truffle oil for John and me. With a generous grinding of black pepper, it was absolutely delicious.

Way to put this snowy day to good use, eh? I'm sitting in front of a big, roaring fire as I type this, pleasantly full of soup and (mostly) panade, while John reads next to me... Nice. I'm thinking our soft bed (with clean sheets, yay!) is going to feel more-than-good when I slide in. Ahhhhh... (Recipes posted in comments, below.)

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