the moderate epicurean

a quest for measured pleasure...

Monday, April 28, 2008

Spring unsprung and a sick son (bad cough), yet doing our best to keep chins up. Good thing we Minnesotans are hardy, yah, otherwise we might complain or something. Ahem.

I'll stick to the highlights.

Saturday night, John and I attended a fundraiser. Wha? Alright, I admit the term fundraiser doesn't usually conjure images of hilarity, but Suz and The Coreman (our wisely chosen guests) know how to put the fun in fundraiser, baby, I highly recommend them for your next gig. (Dial 867-5309 to hire them. Just kidding. If you don't get it, click through the link. If you still don't get it, you're too young/old, which you should feel good about, so no big. Apparently, cold weather dorks me right out...) Somehow there were four bottles of wine on the table for the four of us (I bought two, not sure how that happened), which meant leaving two bottles to waste, rather a bummer. But since I'm not complaining, and it was for charity...hopefully someone enjoyed both bottles.

Sunday night, Stu the Wine Genius + Hijinxing with My Minxes = FAB! Yes, Susie, Kim, and I hosted good-sport Stu (pictured here with his wife, Debbie) on Feminine Hijinx for a wine tasting. Because he chose the wines, they were incredible. Total. Blast. Yum. (Wines forthcoming, I lazily didn't write them down, but will have links soon...)

Monday lunch, Minneapolis Club tomato soup and foodie chat with new friends Gary Johnson and Rebecca Monro, covering health, co-ops, vegetarianism, lentil varieties, and achieving the perfect split-pea puree. That's my kind of lunch.

Monday dinner, a chewy, hearty rigatoni with spicy cauliflower sauce for John and me, as well as fava bean salad with Parmesan and spring onions pour moi (I finally got to those favas). Delicious.

Tomorrow we'll celebrate Nathan's birthday, cough be damned. Sunday night a farewell dinner for my parents, I've got several tasty possibilities spinning 'round my head.

Next week, a Wednesday launch party (that we can't attend, noooo!) for Rudy Maxa's new PBS series, Rudy Maxa's World. But, never fear, we're hosting a dinner for Rudy & Ana Scofield, Stu (The Wine Genius) & Debbie Williams, and Rishia & Andrew Zimmern mere days afterward, that we can attend (since it's, er, here at our house). Oh yeah, serious food and wine will be had (although, I should mention that I'm the one cooking, so I can't guarantee how serious the food will be, but between Stu & Rudy, I know the wine will be great.) I'll most certainly give the menu my best go, so stay tuned...

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Friday, April 25, 2008

Fava beans. Love them. Hardly ever see them in stores 'round these parts, but scored some today at Lakewinds Natural Foods (lovely, lovely store) in Chanhassen. They're a major pain to deal with (shell, blanch, peel, then cook), but so worth it in the end - bright green, tender, nutty, sweet. Just...yum. Check out this great NPR story on the bitter-sweet beauty of favas, along with a gorgeous menu and recipes... Love to know that not only are they delicious, they're fabulously nutritious.

I should clarify that I haven't actually cooked them yet - it'll have to be later this weekend. Tonight, we just had pan-fried tilapia alongside tomatoes and okra sauteed with bacon, my new favorite vegetable dish (as I keep saying, sorry). Can't. Get. Enough. Although a pan full of sauteed heavenly morels and favas could put me over the top (morels and freshly-shelled peas were the kill, but morels and favas, oh my...).

Stay dry! Stay warm! (Yep, it's cold and wet again. Will probably even snow. Again. Yep. Grrrr...)

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Wednesday, April 23, 2008

Halloo! Still alive here! Sorry to be away for so long, I can't even totally blame it on being out of town since I've been back since Monday. (Oops.) John and I snuck away to Big Sur for a long weekend, to celebrate his birthday, and had ourselves a grand old time. What a scene, Big Sur, quite possibly the most beautiful place on the planet. Cool, dry air bathed in warm sunshine. Vast, raw, turquoise blue ocean framed by deep blue sky, red cliffs, and white sand. Soaring redwood stands towering silently over burbling creeks. Meadow after meadow of fragrant lavender and sage, dotted with equally fragrant stands of eucalyptus, perfuming the entire scene with the most heavenly combination of scents. Many Big Sur restaurants look out over these spectacular views - obviously, it does not suck to sip wine and eat fresh fish and veggies in the warm sun, overlooking the Pacific Ocean.

Our two favorite spots ended up being Cielo (at lovely Ventana Inn, where we stayed) and Sierra Mar (at the famous Post Ranch Inn, across the road). Not terribly adventurous of us, but damn, when it's good, it's good - no need to mess around. My favorite dish (of many, ha) was grilled Alaskan salmon and shaved fennel salad over couscous with dill vinaigrette. I literally couldn't get enough of it - I had it for lunch two days in a row! Perfect, butter-tender salmon, I wish all salmon were so delicious, I'm still craving it. Cielo's sauteed Pacific halibut over crushed purple potatoes - which I also enjoyed twice in a row, but for dinner - was equally delicious. Fresh, fresh, fresh. Yum. We pretty much ate fish and vegetables at every turn... Over-looking the ocean, or in our room in front of a roaring fire... Fresh fish and vegetables, thank God for California.

Walking off the great meals was easy - who wouldn't want to hike through such fragrant, stunning beauty? Even John (mos def not a Happy Hiker) happily set off through the trails that wind literally everywhere, including all over Ventana, right out our door. We had a particularly good time hiking with guide Stephen Copeland, along with another couple staying at the resort. From redwoods to ocean cliffs to a tour of historic Nepenthe restaurant, Stephen showed us the heart of Big Sur. Completely entertaining and utterly, ridiculously gorgeous.

So yeah, we're back in the Minneapple (sigh), but loving the balmy air and sunshine that welcomed us home (at least while it lasts, which apparently won't be long). Nathan's doing his homework on the deck as I write this, pretty sweet. I hit Whole Foods yesterday and stocked up on fresh (local) morel mushrooms and English peas - I thought I'd died and gone to heaven scarfing down freshly shelled peas and heavenly morels sauteed in a little butter for dinner last night. Couldn't think of a nicer, more delicious way to ease into home.

And oh! PS, three more welcome-home lovelies:
  • Since I seem to be writing about all things fish lately, I must include this link to the Environmental Defense Fund list of fish/seafood that are safe (and not) to eat. Print out the pocket guide, it couldn't be easier to use, at home and in restaurants. The site even includes recipes. (I've provided a permanent link under "for foodies" at right.)
  • Jeni's Ice Cream, particularly the Black Coffee and Smoked Almond flavors, The Best ice cream I've ever tasted, wowza - order it from here. (Also added under "for foodies.")
  • Happy Passover - must try these Passover Popovers, we had them tonight, rich and deeelicious.

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Wednesday, April 16, 2008

Happy Birthday John!

OK, it's a couple of days early, but I won't be able to blog on the actual big day so... Consider this post a free pass to eat a disgusting amount of chocolate, and oh! Perhaps some prepared foods if we can put our hands on something worthy (that's his thing, prepared foods; as he describes it, it comes from growing up "with a deli tradition." I...don't have a response.) And def some kill frites with a glass of red wine (we share a love for that combo, ha). Good Things! For a Good Man. He deserves every single one of them and more.

(He's laughing with his brother Tom, above, while snarfing Blue Sky Creamery ice cream - not an unusual sight when these two get together. Hey, Happy Birthday Tom - April 20th - as well! And Happy Birthday to my aunt Marge, sandwiched between the Levy brothers on April 19th - hope you loved Jersey Boys!)

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Tuesday, April 15, 2008

As I slowly blinked awake this morning, a sunshine song came to my lips. I sleepily hummed and sang it a bit as I shuffled around for my slippers... Then I stopped short, as it dawned on me...what the heck song is this? Good Lord, am I singing a Chipmunks' song? (I can't stand The Chipmunks.) I rushed out here, typed the lyrics into youtube, and voila...not The Chipmunks, but darn close. It's Pebbles and Bamm Bamm!? Yep, I woke up humming a Pebbles and Bamm Bamm song, total dorksville, ha. It's actually a sweet little song, and if you're anywhere near my age you'll recognize it immediately - Open Up Your Heart and Let the Sun Shine In. Awww... Check it out for a little random reminiscing.

I was smiling last night too - albeit sans television-baby song - when John and I stole out for dinner at Cave Vin (image, below, is from their website). Man, it really hit the spot, we hadn't been out in awhile. And Cave Vin always delivers - consistently delicious, simply prepared food. (Half-price bottles of wine on Monday nights is pretty sweet too, especially given their neat wine list.) I had a gorgeous (forgot my camera, kicking myself) golden beet and fennel salad - paper thin slices of sweet beets, layered with roasted fennel, drizzled with a bit of vinaigrette, dabbed with Dijon mustard around the edge of the plate (great complement to the sweetness of the vegetables), topped off with a generous grind of black pepper. Perfection.

For my main I scored seared scallops, served atop a little pile of roasted parsnips and sauteed spinach. Salty, garlicky, crunchy, tender, the perfect background for sweet scallops, I loved it all. In fact, I'm pretty stoked that I have a leftover scallop and a smidge of veg for my lunch today. They (Cave Vin) make it look casual and easy to toss together a plate of perfectly cooked and seasoned vegetables, alongside a piece of perfectly cooked and seasoned meat/fish. It's not one bit easy, which makes me appreciate it all the more. I never walk out of there feeling weighed down. Every neighborhood should have such an unpretentious, delicious spot (like mine! Please!? But no, it's not meant to be...). Good thing it's easy enough to head over in Cave Vin's direction (54th & Xerxes).

For a bit of bloggy incest, check out my newly minted Moderate Epicurean Facebook page.

If you're needing tips on where to head out for dinner, check out these fun MSP Magazine videos (including Zim).

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Sunday, April 13, 2008

Is it...Spring? Dare I say the word? Oh, it's still colder than a witches you-know-what out there, brrr. But the snow-rain mix has ceased, the sun has peeked out, and the forecast is for sunshine! Sweet, warm, sunshine, well into the week. I think we may have had our last snowstorm. I think I may have pushed my last soup post (not that I won't be making soup, but you know, not all weekend). May you feel the warmth of sunshine on your shoulders, and may it make you happy. (I'll stop with the corniness there, don't worry. Lalalaaa!)

So, let's see, what to make on a Promises-to-be-Spring Sunday? Hmmm... Spring = lamb in my mind, but that won't work for tonight (and anyhow, I'm saving my lamb card to play at an upcoming dinner party). But I have to admit, some chops, rubbed with minced garlic, olive oil, and salt, grilled to crusty perfection... Yeah, that sounds pretty incredible.

Oh! I just had a lovely idea. There's a gorgeous Spring menu in Alice Waters' Chez Panisse Menu Cookbook, simple and elegant. (I've never had the pleasure of eating at the restaurant - someday! - however, enjoy this blogger's terrific post about dining a la Alice; photo of the restaurant is from the post.) I'm including the three savory dishes from the Spring menu; any one of them would be lovely for dinner (and of course, altogether, they would be stunning). Her intro:

Wild Mushrooms on Croutons
Thin Pasta with Spring Vegetables

Charcoal-Grilled Salmon with Grilled Red Onions


When I think of spring, I immediately think of salmon - those first young delicate-fleshed fish that seduce everyone in the dining room. This menu is meant to directly complement the salmon; little croutons with the last of the fresh morels; the first peas and asparagus with very delicate thin pasta...

Suggested wines: This menu calls for new, young wines - perhaps a fresh Bourgogne Aligote and a Beaujolais with the grilled salmon.
Sheesh, just reading the recipes feels like a warm, fragrant breeze. So nice. (Recipes posted in comments, below.)

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Friday, April 11, 2008

Such a pretty, gray day. I just love snow, ice, freezing rain, slush, and gusting winds in April. Refreshing! Plus, it's so great for the hair, shoes, and spirit. Yeah.

Actually, it is good for the spirit...to get the giggles. Which is exactly what happened last night, after another amazing performance of Jersey Boys, when Mom and I had to make our way across the street to the parking ramp. The icy-slushy sidewalks made for excruciatingly slow, dangerous going (in heels no less, ack). The wind was too strong for an umbrella. So we just had to take it, 40 mph gusts driving heavy, wet snow into our hair, faces, and coats. We thankfully made it inside, took one look at each other, and burst out laughing. What else can you do? We looked like two drowned rats! At least it was the end of the night, sheesh.

Despite the nightmare weather, it was a pretty fantastic night. As I said, Jersey Boys completely rocked (again), I loved seeing it a second time. We preceded the performance with a lovely dinner at Palomino - garlicky shrimp scampi for Mom, a bowl of the best minestrone I have ever had for me. That soup, I craved it today. Rich broth, chewy pasta, tender beans and vegetables, topped with a crouton and a generous grating of cheese.

I couldn't have eaten it today, though, too full from the coconut rice pudding I had at Suz's this morning (Friday Morning Coffee with Suz)! OMG, delicious, creamy, decadent, the perfect comfort food. Who the hell needs lunch when you have coconut rice pudding? We did our usual gab and shriek and evil gossip and I'm now fortified with good cheer for the weekend. Hey, we all know our fair share of unhappy, crazy people - they're everywhere, unforch - but nothing balances it all out better than other amazing women - girlfriends, sisters, step/mothers, aunts. I am disgustingly lucky to have them all and oh, am I grateful, very, very grateful. Thanks - yet again - ladies!

So! Every-other Friday I have dinner a la moi, and this happens to be one of those Fridays. As I've mentioned before (bit repetitive today, sorry), I take the opportunity to make and eat things that no one else in the fam much digs: kale, okra, tofu, polenta, brown rice, squash, brussels sprouts, beans, miso, beets, veggie burgers, cabbage. Good things. Healthy-yummy things. Things that some men and children have decided to not like (long sigh). Tonight I'm planning tabbouleh (heavy on the parsley, tomatoes, and cukes), a garbanzo salad I bought at Whole Foods (with mint and red onions, tasty), and braised kale. Rarrr...

With lots of HOT tea! In front of a WARM fire! Baby, it's cold outside - stay warm out there!

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Thursday, April 10, 2008

This month's Fitness Magazine has a candid, interesting article about the rather wise and balanced health habits of...Condoleeza Rice?! Hey, I'm no fan politically (to say the least), but she's definitely an example of a busy woman, and gets credit for allowing her workout to be photographed (egads), as well as for sharing insights into how she manages (obviously) intense job stress by taking care of her health - adequate sleep, nutritious food, and regular exercise. (The website only provides her workout, not the full interview, but it's still worth checking out.) Yet another example of a busy woman who names rigorous workouts as the source of her energy. Hmmm...

In fact, rigorous exercise, as outlined in the excellent book SPARK, by John J. Ratey, MD, is also the key to stable mood and a sharp intellect, among other healthy brain functions. From Amazon.com:

Did you know you can beat stress, lift your mood, fight memory loss, sharpen your intellect, and function better than ever simply by elevating your heart rate and breaking a sweat? The evidence is incontrovertible: Aerobic exercise physically remodels our brains for peak performance.

In SPARK, John J. Ratey, M.D., embarks upon a fascinating and entertaining journey through the mind-body connection, presenting startling research to prove that exercise is truly our best defense against everything from depression to ADD to addiction to aggression to menopause to Alzheimer's. Filled with amazing case studies (such as the revolutionary fitness program in Naperville, Illinois, which has put this school district of 19,000 kids first in the world of science test scores), SPARK is the first book to explore comprehensively the connection between exercise and the brain. It will change forever the way you think about your morning run---or, for that matter, simply the way you think.
Sound interesting? It is, in fact I couldn't put it down, not to mention I can't think of a better motivator for getting out the door and moving my butt. (Fitting into skinny jeans can only take you so far, and as you probably already know, that's not very.)

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Wednesday, April 09, 2008

I'd declare tomorrow night Soup Night, what with another *%^&ing snowstorm coming and all, but instead my mom and I are off to see Jersey Boys. I couldn't help but think as I watched last week, my mom must see this. So she is. Or will be... Can't wait!

But for any of you who will be knocking 'round your kitchen, trying not to look out the window, here are a couple of the batten-down/snuggle-up soups I'll wish I were eating. Man, nothing chases away a bad mood like a pot of soup - comforting (and simple) to make, plus nutritious and tasty. (It takes only a hint of smoky bacon or a splash of rich cream to make a so-so soup pretty damn fabulous.)

Top of the list - I have been loving the Sunday Suppers at Lucques (by Suzanne Goin, terrific book) watercress soup recipe I posted a couple of months ago - salty, buttery croutons afloat in silky, spicy deliciousness. I crave it. And I've found the basic recipe to be quite adaptable - we've had arugula and asparagus versions so far, both lovely.

Chicken soup with bacon, asparagus, and truffle oil is also delicious - fragrant, flavorful, quick to pull together. And one of our all-time favorites, which requires a few extra steps but is quite worth it, fish soup with grilled bread and rouille, oooh, pretty insanely good. Grilling the bread adds a hint of smokiness, while the rouille rounds it all out with a spicy-garlicky kick. Ka. Pow. Yeah.

Of course, New England clam chowder is always warm and filling on a cold spring's night. Especially this version, chock full o' bacon and creamy but not thick. With warm crusty bread, or even popovers (rarrr...), it could be almost pleasant to ride out (frozen) April showers. Almost.

And oh, here's a must-read for those of you who already embrace (or at least aspire to) the art of eating (very) well without weighing 400 pounds. Moderation, anyone? As Jason Perlow, a founder of the foodiest of forums - eGullet - notes in the article, “I think you can still keep the food very interesting, but do it in moderation. That’s what the food community of the future is going to have to be.” Or, as the livin' large Food Network star and New York chef Mario Batali said, “You can’t eat a large portion of a pig and lose weight.” Damn, forget a quest for measured pleasure, THAT should be the tag line for this blog!

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Tuesday, April 08, 2008

When I'm not hungry, I don't cook. And even when I am hungry, I don't cook what I'm not hungry for. Make sense? It leads me to believe that those of us who love to cook and think and talk and write about food tend to be the hungrier ones, the ones with Appetites. Maybe I'm wrong, but I'd bet not.

I bring this up because I've had a somewhat diminished appetite the last week or so (the pendulum swings...) and I'm finding it so hard to figure out what the heck to make for dinner! I totally plan from hankerings, and without hankerings... It's much more of a chore, blah. I would be very sad indeed if my appetite just disappeared.

So tonight we had one of those I-don't-feel-like-cooking dinners, where I pick up a rotisserie chicken, and grill some pita bread, and set out olive spread and tsatsiki from the deli, and make a big Greek salad (romaine, kalamata olives, crumbled feta, tomatoes, onions, fresh dill), and we each put it all together in various ways - chicken in the salad or salad in the warm pita or olive spread on the chicken or pita... You get the picture. Fills the hole and tastes pretty damn good to boot. NICE!

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Saturday, April 05, 2008

Artisanal. The term is tossed around every-damn-where in the food/wine world these days, unfortunately starting to imply overwrought and/or pretentious; which is a shame, since all it basically means is hand-crafted. And since hand-crafted is the opposite of mass-produced (i.e. highly processed, artificially colored, flavored, and preserved, and as such potentially bad for the body and palate), in concept I'm all for artisanal. Until it becomes more of a marketing term than a marker of quality, which appears to be in process (excuse the pun) as I write. So what will be the new term, the one that more accurately means quality? Hmm... (Reminds me of the transition from old-school-cache organic to new-school-cache local - how 'bout you?) What would you prefer - locally mass-produced or organically artisanal (but shipped from half-way around the world)? Do you care? Ah, a little food terminology for thought on a Saturday's eve...

As I write, I've been listening to a wine blog/podcast brought to my attention by Stu The Wine Genius - Graperadio.com. In particular, he pointed out the interview of (artisanal!) Sine Qua Non wine producer Manfred Krankl (great name, eh? The interview is in the archives, 11/27/2006). Since you most likely won't be able to get your hands on Sine Qua Non yourself (very limited production, very high demand), have a listen to the interview (in two parts) instead. Meantime, I'll reminisce fondly about the Sine Qua Non I've been privileged to drink, courtesy of Stu, knowing that I'll never drink it again unless he shares more of his (photo, in his cellar, from last year; each vintage has a different, fabulous label, waaay cool). Sigh. And thank you Stu!

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Friday, April 04, 2008

Oh man, I almost missed a terrific night last night. I was soooo tired, and not feeling all that great, but John and I had tickets to the musical Jersey Boys, playing at the Orpheum, so I had to motivate. I spiffed up a bit, but I admit - I bitched and moaned all the way there. (I'm not a big fan of the whole Broadway musical thing, plus I was feeling lousy, plus I tend to bitch and moan in general...) But once the music started up - wowzers! I was completely blown away. By the end my tired ass was dancing in my seat and my face hurt from smiling (they dropped enough f-bombs for even me to crack a smile, wink). Fabulous, I can't recommend it highly enough. "Oh, What a Night!"

Today? Fish Soup Friday, yep. No kids tonight, always a good chance for fish (since neither are fans, to say the least). And I'm wanting something simple, light, and nutritious. A slice of grilled bread, rubbed with fresh garlic, gives the soup a substantial feel. Roasted broccoli alongside rounds things out nicely.

Happy Weekend!

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Thursday, April 03, 2008

A better name for Wild Wednesdays is actually Make-Your-Own Wednesdays. I've pretty much mastered the art of deconstructing dishes to accommodate everyone's individual preferences. (Don't ask how I got to the place of being this, um, accommodating, 'cuz believe me, it reflects neither my nature nor my values - I'm more of an old-school "if I did the work to make it, you pay me the courtesy of eating it" sort of grrrl. Except for Cooper - he can eat anything he wants, awww.) Anyhow, last night's version was make-your-own pasta: a pan of spicy tomato sauce (tomato sauce simmered with lots of garlic, olive oil, and red pepper flakes), a pulled-apart rotisserie chicken, a pan of sauteed vegetables (this time cauliflower, onions, red bell pepper, more red pepper flakes, and currants), freshly grated Parm, and a big ol' pot of pasta. Build away! Good stuff.

Oh man, I'm feeling SO much better now that I'm back to my usual routine. Funny, it took blowing up like a water balloon on vacation to slap me out of my winter rut - I've definitely re-upped my fresh vegetable and fruit intake (roasted, sauteed, grilled, salads, smoothies - any way I can think to include them), and reduced my refined carbohydrate consumption, and voila (shocker), I look less puffy and feel more energetic for it. I'm not where I want to be, but at least I feel "on track" and healthier, you know?

Of course more daylight truly deserves the credit for my new-found motivation - the sun packs some punch these days, bam-bam, yes! It's so damn irritating that my body longs for stillness and comforty, carby foods (preferably accompanied by Hope Creamery butter and a nice Pinot Noir, sigh) in the depths of deep, dark winter. It's so...cliche. It's so...beyond my discipline. Disappointing. Anyhow, I'm glad to be past the worst of it and moving on into spring. Welcome sunlight! (Bouncing off April snow? We'll take it!) Welcome vegetables! Let the depuffing continue!

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